Sunday, August 23, 2009

Ireland, Day 5: BOG MAN!!!

The fifth day brought more education to our trip, as we headed out to the National Museum of Ireland. First, we overslept…again. Then we hit breakfast/lunch at Lemon, home to fine crepes (falsely advertized in our guidebook as pancakes) and waffles. Kati discovered the tasty “ballymaloe sauce,” though we have no idea what it really was. Then, the museum.

The museum, like most, is broken up into the common ages. Stone, early, and late Bronze Age artifacts come from the burial mounds that science has surveyed throughout the country. One of the more famous mounds is the Mound of Hostages. A passage tomb (had a rectangular room made up a rock slabs with multiple areas of deposits), its use began some 6000 years ago. A site of multiple cremations and burials, it also served as a place to crown some of the High Kings of Ireland, served as a pulpit for Catholic missionaries, and a meeting and gathering place through the Irish Troubles. Some of the other artifacts, both from the ages above and the Iron Ages to near present, came from the many bogs located throughout the country. As these areas were basically impassible, they served as boundaries between minor and major kingdoms. And, as such, they also served as areas to deposit your on time sacrifice to the gods. From swords, shields, to butter (yep, butter…they have a block of butter that is bigger than a cinder block. Solid, preserved butter…gross).

Additionally, the bogs served as areas to present your human sacrifice to the gods. This was apparently normal. Why? Well, back in the day, people felt that the weather, harvest, and butter yield, were all tied to the will of the gods. And, their king was also tied to the god, as he was “married” to the land at his coronation. So, if things went south, so did the king. Hostages were also sacrificed to maintain treaties. The corpses were deposited in the bogs for folk to find years later. The museum has three bog men. The one that come to the museum in the best shape, Croghain Man, was actually sans head and abdomen…and legs. Nice hands though. Anyways, one thing I thought about all three of the subjects that was interesting was that science could tell us what they ate last, what their typical diet was, and if they ever did any hard work (none of them did). Go science!

For the most part, the exhibits were a great depiction of the increasing technology of the Irish people. Some of the best Late Bronze Age Rapiers are there. And some of the molds that were made for them. Additionally, there’s a lot of HORDES of things. Unfortunately, Kati was quite displeased to find that there were no HORDES OF SWORDS. A majority of the hordes consisted of gold and silver that was “buried in times of stress” ie: Viking/English/the peasantry was getting uppity. And said owner of horde didn’t make it. Too much to list here, but some really sweet stuff.

We left the upper floors of the museum for later, and head out to another church, St. Audoen’s. Situated west of the hotel, it was a local church and served as a meeting place for the guild of St. Anne’s, and trade guilds. Also is next to the only surviving gate from the original city wall. A fine looking church, very representative of the neighborhood chapel, is the only medieval church still in use. However, like most churches of the time, only a quarter of it is used for services, with the rest as a museum, or ruined. Of course, it’s Church of Ireland, so whatever (interesting, one of the reasons the church fell in ruin is that the guild of St. Anne, which was Catholic, lost many of its wealthy and influential members that refused to convert and support a church that wasn’t Catholic…even if it was where their ancestors were buried. But that’s a whole different tale). In the gardens outside, there was a thistle that was SIX FEET HIGH…big weed.

After we headed back to the hotel, stopping at the Christ Church Cathedral to gawk at some of the actors from “Tudors” which was shooting some scenes inside. Oh Hollywood…

Dinner was at Gruel, a Rachael Ray and guide book suggested place for their soup. Not so much. Proving once again that more recommendations does not equal more better. We did get some wicked cheesecake at the bistro in the hotel, and manage to break their credit card machine, so that made up for it. We then managed to repack our bags in a safe manner, and sacked out.

Next, our heroes attempt their most foolish stunt yet…DRIVING ON THE LEFT!!!

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