Sunday, August 23, 2009

Ireland, Day 7: Youghal, Mall, Wall, and all

On this fine day we headed back East up to Youghal. Youghal is the hamlet that Kati’s Great-Grandfather hailed from. Situated on Youghal Bay, in between the River Blackwater and the Atlantic, Youghal is an old town, first serving as a winter camp for Viking raiders. Over time, a permanent settlement was established by the Vikings and local Irish. Though it changed hands multiple times, as did most land in Ireland, it served as a prosperous seaport with ties to British and Dutch trading factions. Sir Water Raleigh was at one time a major land owner and mayor. Additionally, Cromwell (BOOO!!) spent his later winters on the island there (Youghal was a pro-Cromwell town, but we all can’t be winners).

Currently, Youghal serves as a weekend getaway for the local populous of Counties Cork and Waterford, an active fishing enterprise, and great place to own a boat. Many of the medieval charms of the city remain, in two city gates, a town hall which was known as The Mall, a large portion of the landside curtain wall, and the remnants of the two local Priories (now schools). One odd thing I found in the town is that the local Catholic Bishop and the townspeople actually (and willingly) erected a Catholic Church prior to the Catholic Emancipation (fairly early for the area). However, they did follow local law (at the time) that required such buildings o’awesome to be located off the main city streets. (It still ends up being on the same street as the college and the Church of Ireland, but whatever helped the Protestants sleep at night.) Another is that the cemetery of the Church of Ireland is built into the curtain wall, even though some of the graves date back far enough to when it was still a necessary function.

Youghal was, unfortunately, not all happy times. A group of Irish Brotherhood members were hung in Youghal, from the windows of the Clock Gate (one of the remaining, which served as a gaol or prison). Youghal also felt some of the famine’s blight, losing over half its population to the American Immigration in the mid-1800’s. But, things are looking up, as we only saw one pay toilet.

Personally, the beach was one of the best features to me…aside from the occasional smell of iron and fish…and various heavy metals. There was a substantial difference between low and high tide, so there were many rocks covered in clams, mollusks, barnacles, and other crustaceans. Located next to the lighthouse was a rock diving area, complete with diving board into 6 feet of water (at high tide) and possible doom. And, the customary middle school children smoking and taking hits of a bottle of cheap vodka…JUST LIKE AMERICA!!!!

Further down, the beach we walked on was the “official” beach…clearly the resort portion of town. Not much going on, as it was cloudy, raining, and generally rough water. But, you could see the old architecture from the ‘20s when people would take the train from Cork and get off right onto the beach. Happy days.

Our time in Youghal spent, we returned to Cork, again not damaging anything more than Kati’s sanity at my “driving like the locals.” We hit up dinner at a fine place called the “Four Liars Bistro,” named after clocks on a nearby church tower that all give a different time because some wooden numbers are thicker than others and hang up the hands, where we listened to some of the local rif-raf yell at a window across the street, only to see the occupant of said window walk up the street. Brilliant. We then took in “I Love You, Beth Cooper,” a fine movie based on the book. It started a bit slow, but overall was a pretty good flick. If not for the damn Tweens sitting behind us, I really would have liked the place.

We walked back to the hotel in the rain, checking out which Mass to hit up in the morning. The winner was St. Augustine’s, a church that is not so much a church as a building….but that is another tale.

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Ireland, Day 6: The left

Friday we took it to the next level and departed Dublin for Cork, via car… After the usual pain and suffering when renting a car we were off! The most important bit of advice: “no turn on red.” (You thought it would be “drive on the left” didn’t you? It turns out there are plenty of signs to drive that point home, but nothing regarding the policy for turning at red lights.)

We successfully made it out of Dublin, driving on the left and not turning on red, and proceeded to Cork along the East coast. As we drove we noticed some curious things: It seems many things are opposite when driving in Europe, not just driving on the left, thus looking left for pertinent signs, but also towns are listed closest to furthest from the bottom up. However, they make efficient use of frequent roundabouts.

Additionally, Ireland uses white for the centerline and double yellow on the edges of the road. This is further complicated by separating lanes in the same direction by, you guessed it, white lines. On the plus side the shoulders are generally wide in passing zones so that on a two lane road when you get to a passing zone, you don’t have to cross the centerline for long. Slower moving vehicles will even drive on the shoulder waiting for you to pass, if possible. But, of course, aside from occasional signs telling you not to turn left or right (not always because of a one-way), there is no clear indication of which way is the one-way on single lane streets.

Probably the most humorous items so far are signs for “traffic calming.” What this actually means is that lanes merge, divided highways end, and the speed limit reduces, but I can’t help thinking it’s something we need to reduce road rage. Calm, traffic, calm.

We managed to stop for lunch, and then make it the rest of the way to Cork, bypassing Youghal (Yawl) for the day to be seen for a full day tomorrow. Once in Cork we were greeted by many one-way streets, restrictions on which direction to turn and at one point we were even on a bridge where the legal traffic pattern is for both sides to drive on the right (let’s be North American for one block!)… in any case, we made it to our B&B, had coffee and scones, picked our room and unloaded the car.

After taking a breather and examining the info on Cork, we went to dinner at a little place with a deck overlooking a bit of the South fork of the River Lee. This was interesting if only for the chance to ponder building an island in the middle of a river and then centering your city there. Silly Vikings.

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Ireland, Day 5: BOG MAN!!!

The fifth day brought more education to our trip, as we headed out to the National Museum of Ireland. First, we overslept…again. Then we hit breakfast/lunch at Lemon, home to fine crepes (falsely advertized in our guidebook as pancakes) and waffles. Kati discovered the tasty “ballymaloe sauce,” though we have no idea what it really was. Then, the museum.

The museum, like most, is broken up into the common ages. Stone, early, and late Bronze Age artifacts come from the burial mounds that science has surveyed throughout the country. One of the more famous mounds is the Mound of Hostages. A passage tomb (had a rectangular room made up a rock slabs with multiple areas of deposits), its use began some 6000 years ago. A site of multiple cremations and burials, it also served as a place to crown some of the High Kings of Ireland, served as a pulpit for Catholic missionaries, and a meeting and gathering place through the Irish Troubles. Some of the other artifacts, both from the ages above and the Iron Ages to near present, came from the many bogs located throughout the country. As these areas were basically impassible, they served as boundaries between minor and major kingdoms. And, as such, they also served as areas to deposit your on time sacrifice to the gods. From swords, shields, to butter (yep, butter…they have a block of butter that is bigger than a cinder block. Solid, preserved butter…gross).

Additionally, the bogs served as areas to present your human sacrifice to the gods. This was apparently normal. Why? Well, back in the day, people felt that the weather, harvest, and butter yield, were all tied to the will of the gods. And, their king was also tied to the god, as he was “married” to the land at his coronation. So, if things went south, so did the king. Hostages were also sacrificed to maintain treaties. The corpses were deposited in the bogs for folk to find years later. The museum has three bog men. The one that come to the museum in the best shape, Croghain Man, was actually sans head and abdomen…and legs. Nice hands though. Anyways, one thing I thought about all three of the subjects that was interesting was that science could tell us what they ate last, what their typical diet was, and if they ever did any hard work (none of them did). Go science!

For the most part, the exhibits were a great depiction of the increasing technology of the Irish people. Some of the best Late Bronze Age Rapiers are there. And some of the molds that were made for them. Additionally, there’s a lot of HORDES of things. Unfortunately, Kati was quite displeased to find that there were no HORDES OF SWORDS. A majority of the hordes consisted of gold and silver that was “buried in times of stress” ie: Viking/English/the peasantry was getting uppity. And said owner of horde didn’t make it. Too much to list here, but some really sweet stuff.

We left the upper floors of the museum for later, and head out to another church, St. Audoen’s. Situated west of the hotel, it was a local church and served as a meeting place for the guild of St. Anne’s, and trade guilds. Also is next to the only surviving gate from the original city wall. A fine looking church, very representative of the neighborhood chapel, is the only medieval church still in use. However, like most churches of the time, only a quarter of it is used for services, with the rest as a museum, or ruined. Of course, it’s Church of Ireland, so whatever (interesting, one of the reasons the church fell in ruin is that the guild of St. Anne, which was Catholic, lost many of its wealthy and influential members that refused to convert and support a church that wasn’t Catholic…even if it was where their ancestors were buried. But that’s a whole different tale). In the gardens outside, there was a thistle that was SIX FEET HIGH…big weed.

After we headed back to the hotel, stopping at the Christ Church Cathedral to gawk at some of the actors from “Tudors” which was shooting some scenes inside. Oh Hollywood…

Dinner was at Gruel, a Rachael Ray and guide book suggested place for their soup. Not so much. Proving once again that more recommendations does not equal more better. We did get some wicked cheesecake at the bistro in the hotel, and manage to break their credit card machine, so that made up for it. We then managed to repack our bags in a safe manner, and sacked out.

Next, our heroes attempt their most foolish stunt yet…DRIVING ON THE LEFT!!!

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Thursday, August 20, 2009

Ireland, Day 4: Guinness!!!

Spent most of Wednesday at the Guinness Storehouse. Storehouse = fermentation house, which is exactly what that section of the brewery served as until 1987. It now serves as the brewery’s main tourist and information attraction. We bought our tickets online to get a discount and bypass the lines…more on the importance of that in a moment.

A bit of history, Arthur Guinness got started by renting a brewery and property at St. James’s Gate from a local Bishop in 1759, paying 100 pounds down and 45 pounds a month for 9000 years (there’s a copy of the contract in the main floor - yes, in the floor). Most importantly, this included rights to the fresh, pure water coming into Dublin from the Wicklow Mountains, which Arthur was willing to protect with his life, if necessary (it almost was). As part of the 250th Anniversary, there are special events held each day. We chose to go Wednesday for the Guinness varietal tasting. 25 lucky folk got to head up to a room to learn about and taste the various versions of Guinness. (Early birds got the Guinness!) After putting our names on the list, it was off to their cafĂ© for breakfast; tasty coffee, odd muffin,

danish 1, bamboo fork 0…but at least they’re trying to be green. Then, it was off to taste!

We sampled four in all; draught (the money maker), extra stout (closest to the original), foreign extra stout (huge in Africa), and the 250th Anniversary stout (only available in the US – and the tasting – tastes like Budweiser). Met some crazy Aussies, each got a free pint glass, and then headed back to the beginning to read all about everything Guinness.

Guinness, as an employer, was ahead of the times providing employee housing, onsite health care and exercise, clothing, and of course 2 pints a day (or for those under 18, the pint allowance could be put in a savings account or used to buy extra stuff at the company store). The company also provided 6 paid holidays including day trips to the beach or your choice of other attraction (option to re-choose if it rained out your holiday). Later they also provided incentives for obtaining higher education (many employees started work at 14 because their families could not afford to send them to secondary school which was not government run).

After 6 hours at Guinness and drinking our cost in beer (well, technically I drank most of it), we headed back to the hotel with our sweet pint glasses and some other things from the gift shop. When the world stopped spinning so fast, we headed back down to the Temple Bar area for chow. This dinner was brought to you by the letter H, then number 5834739, and Oliver St. John Gogarty Pub. This fine establishment advertised fine Irish music and food….which, was on floor 2. We went to floor 3, which beheld the French style of Irish food. And, 3.50 8oz bottles of water (still), 4 euro for a basket of bread and butter (well, the bread was warm) and snooty waiters. Three groups bailed after looking at the menu. Perhaps we should have done the same, but we persevered. The food wasn’t that bad, but the bill was. And, the band we wished to hear was next door, but we were unable to get a seat at the window, because the head waiter was the devil…in all, DON’T EVER GO THERE!

After dinner we went on the mandatory pin run from the local Hard Rock, which was successful, and then went in search of comedy, Irish style. Here, we learned that all guide books cannot be trusted, as two of the three we had listed the wrong times. Damn them. We headed back to the hotel and got minorly lost, but we did see some apartments that had stone carvings from Gulliver’s Travels. Check one more thing off the “Random Things to Do” list.
Up next, gold, bronze, bogmen, and stuff.

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Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Ireland, Day 3, part 3

Man, can't keep up with all the days....so, when we last spoke (read?), I was talking about our time at Trinity College Dublin. Ate lunch at a place called "Gotham Cafe" that had some great pizza and old Rolling Stone covers on the wall. We then took in Dublin Castle. A great example of using the old for the new, the castle is home to Dublin's Garda Traffic Unit (beat cops), an odd art exhibit, a museum that was closed, and some fancy state offices. Granted, the was a mishmash of old towers and ruins, it's still got some great architecture.

After our afternoon rest/desweat, we went to dinner at the pub next door, "Darkey Kelly's" a former brothel/house of ill-refute (funny as it's next to a church). Watched the Celtic/Arsenal Champion's League match (Arsenal won with two really lucky goals). Also watched an Irishman and a lady from New York (Long Island, I think...really, sounded like Fran Drescher "the Nanny" but not as nasal). After the game we crashed.

Tomorrow, we discuss the Guinness Storehouse, an overpriced warehouse, and the unfortunate effects of a tour guide to guide you...


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Ireland, Day 3, part 2

Ok...it's morning now (Day 4) and back to typing. Kinda like working on a term paper. Let's see, where did we leave off? Ah, Trinity College. Again, it's a really great looking campus. Full of some old and odd traditions. Like, only Fellows of the College are allowed to walk across one of the many lawns. And, in the Exam Building, if you require a drink during a test and have run out of water, all you need to do is ask the proctor for a glass of brandy from the celler. Neat, huh? Also interesting is that an old and stoic University such as Trinity also had to deal with the 70's. Their "Arts and Sciences" Building (don't recall what they called it) is supposed to look like the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, but actually is a blob of concrete and glass. The concrete's pH is too high to support plant life, so its original purpose is kinda lost. And a majority of the classrooms have no windows or any type of proper ventilation, so it's not a great place for class. In all, the students kinda hate it...but, it won so many architecture awards, it's a Listed Building (similar to our Dept. of Interior Registered Building), so unless there's an earthquake, they're stuck with it.
Two other non-school things we saw was an exhibit on Bubbles in the school's free Science Gallery. Though generally for kids, two real neat things were a bubble that had a laser shot through/around it, which, when cast onto the wall and ceiling, gave off the impression that you were inside of the bubble. And since we were sitting on beanbags, I reckon it's like a LSD moment. The other was a set up with a webcam shooting a bubble, and then the spectrum was broken down and altered into soundwaves...so, if you blew on the bubble and make the skin move, it would register as altered pitches. I'm sure there's more physics envovled in that explination, but...there you go.
Additionally, the College is well-known for holding some of the old Irish Gospels. Particularly the Book of Kells. There was a really interesing exhibit on how the books were made: the vellum being processed, what the inks were made from, the binding process. Also some of the scholarship that was done on the Book itself. They (scholarly folk) are pretty sure that only four monks worked on the project. Looking at the book, it's pretty impressive. No touching though...bad tourist.
Finally on our tour of Trinity, the Long Room, which is the main room of the library. It's about 65 yards long, full of mable busts, an exhibit on Napoleon and writings about him, and 200,000 texts that few people in the word can actually read (in Greek and Latin).

GAH!! Running out of time again...got to get to St. James for the Guinness tour...back later.

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Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Ireland, Day 2/3

The second day of our trip was a bit more relaxed than the first. More relaxed in that we slept until noon. It really wasn't our fault...seems there's no clock in the room and even though the church has chimes every fifteen minutes, we were just a bit lazy. After we rolled out of bed, went off to Beweley's Cafe for chow. Took a look at the Bank of Ireland (old Parliament building) and started to look at Trinity College (more on that later). Also wandered a bit through Grafton St, a larger shopping area. Finally, headed along the north side of the River Liffey, to look at some of the old buildings and the folk. It's odd that local people are drinking 24oz's of Budwieser. Really? That's just sad.

We passed by the Custom House and the Four Courts, which originally held the four divisions making up the judicial system. Next, did a quick lap around St. Michan's church, the oldest parish church on the Northside and possibly some inspiration for Dracula as Bram Stoker visted the vaults with his family. We just checked out the outside, complete with cemetary, before scurrying out the gate so as not to be locked in for the night...eep! Then, we cut over to the Old Jameson Distillery. Interesting place. Not sure if we'll be able to get back for the tour, but cool to see. Finally, we were denied the opportunity to go to the top of the Chimney Viewing Tower, previously part of said distillery, so headed back to the room to relax for a bit. Went to dinner at the Irish Film Institute (good stuff), then off to wander about in the Temple Bar, which is a pedmall next to the river. Owned by the Temple family back in the day and built on a sandbar (get it?), it's now a lane of bars, shops and random musicians.

Day 3 started a bit earlier. Good thing the ipods have an alarm. Breakfast at the Queen of Tarts; nice little place that is hiring (must speak fluent English). Back to Trinity College for the official tour. A nice feller told us all about the buildings, the grounds, and the poor folk in the "Red" dorm that have to actually leave their building to go to the bathroom (a large blue door).

In a stark contrast to Mizzou, that has dorms all over the place and land to expand, Trinity is in the middle of the city (and 500ish years old). So, of the 16000 that attend, only about 1000 can live on campus. Sad day.

Running out of battery, and can't charge and compute at the same time...will finish in the morning.

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Sunday, August 16, 2009

Ireland, Day 1: UBER MASS

Kati and I have successfully entered Irish territory. The plane ride from Chicago to Dublin was uneventful, if uncomfortable. Decent chow (dinner and breakfast on a seven hour flight) and got to watch 17 Again...not great, but not bad. Zach Efron is a pretty good dancer. Didn't get much sleep. Rolled into Dublin at 8:30 am local time (Dublin is 6 hours ahead of Central) half asleep and a bit chilled. A partly cloudy day of 65, with a howling wind. And I'm in shorts and a t-shirt. Kati's in a sweater and jeans, at least...poor planning on my part. Our room at the hotel wasn't ready yet (come on, only 4 hours early?), so we stashed our luggage and looked for a church. The one next door to the hotel is Christ Church Dublin, a hulking Norman Gothic structure. Of course, it's not Catholic. Cause why would the biggest churches be Catholic? But, as I was cold, tired, and cold, we sat through the Anglican service. Didn't see much difference, except for the odd feller with a stick that escorted people around. However, great choir and a huge organ. The CCD choir teamed up with the choir from St. Patrick's Cathedral (Church of Ireland, if you're scoring at home) for the first production of Handel's Messiah (which took place down the street from our hotel as well). The CCD also has a pretty neat crypt with a some nice treasures (William III was a fan, as was James II). Also, the tomb of Strongbow, one of the Anglo-Norman fellers that needed more land so he conquered Ireland, is there as well.
After getting our room, taking a nap (running on two hours of sleep at this point), we wandered off in search of food. Per one of our travel guides, we went to Brasserie Sixty 6, a fine establishment with dencent chow...however, and maybe I need this explained to me, but why in the hell do you need to pay for a refill on a soda. Are you getting the syrup from Coke by FedEx??? Come on folks...
Finally, we found ourselves a Fransican Friary that had an evening service, so went to that...cause it's good to have a warm-up before the real deal. Again, not much difference, except for the prayers of the faithful when they switched to Gaelic. Nice language, but kinda sing-songy...well, more like gibberish...whatever.

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